Friday, April 11, 2008

Email from very late on April 10th

I received this email at almost 10:30 Thursday night, which meant it was about 12:30 in the morning for Guillermo!!

For six days they were cloaked in fog and clouds, invisible to the human eye, but on the seventh day, the rays of the sun burned through the veil, and as the fog and mist fell away, the spires revealed themselves in all there splendor.
We had a good day today and Ushuaia is still in the picture.
We got back to Calafate at 10:00p.m., and got a hotel, although I wanted to run here as soon as we got to town, the boy was hungry, so you know what we did.
After I wrote you last night, we walked out of the Internet place and it felt warmer. There was not a sign of snow anywhere and it was drizzling, so we thought it was bad news for today. However, when we walked out at 8:30 this morning, everything was white, several inches deep, so it must have snowed most of the night. The strrets were really tricky walking because the snow froze on top of the rain. The boy and I had breakfast, and at nine, we walked ot of the town looking for a trail. It was partly cloudy and didn't know whether the weather would hold. We also had to decide wheather to close our return on the bus for 6:00 today, because I had left it open. Another decision was whether to take a trail that would get us closer to Fitzroy, but where we would probably not have good views of Cerro Torre, Eggers or Standhardt, and those are very impressive peaks. We were told that Torre was the more difficult one to sse and that it clouded up quicker than the others, but I think we made the right decision. We decided to go for Torre lake in front of the peak, a six hour round trip walk to the lake. So we walked through the snow, plenty on the ground and the trees were loaded. We saw an austral parakeet, some flickers, a rabbit and some torrent ducks on the way there. The torrent ducks were really neat; they were able to swim upstream in very swift water. We got to the lake in 2 hours and 45 minutes, so we did well. We also walked around the rim of the lake to a place where we could get a better look of the glacier that feeds it. On the way there, we heard, but did not see, two avalanches that sounded like freight trains. The wind coming off of the glacier and downslope from the peak really buffeted us on the rim. The wind was blowing snow really hard horizontally and it pelted our faces. Although my feet hurt a good bit as they usually do, I felt good otherwise and was able to match the boy stride for stride. We both fell a couple of times. He caught himself with his hands both times and I did once, but the other time I landed on my shoulder, but no harm done. All in all, we walked from 9:00 until 4:00 when we got back into the town. During that time, we only stopped when he took pictures and for about twenty minutes to eat lunch. So, I felt that I did well and did not hold him back today, but I am sore and I'm sure I'll be sore tomorrow. Even he said his legs and anklies were sore. It was cold, but beautiful walking in that snow and I really did not find the trail that tough, other than the slippery conditions and a few climbs. By the time we got back, the snow had all melted in the town. The peaks reamined clear until we were abut two hours down the trail toward the town. I know you would have just loved seeing all the snow on the ground and trees and those peaks are something else. They look practically impossible to climb and I understand there is a cemetary in El Chalten for those who have died trying to do it.
Well, it is very late, well after midnight, and I need to get up early and carry all of my stuff about 8 or 10 blocks and hope to catch a bus to Chile.

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